We talk a bit about Omegas and Essential Fatty Acids (e.g. Linoleic, Linolenic, Oleic, Eicosenoic and Ricinoleic Acids) in our product descriptions, so thought a little explanation would help you understand why we formulate our products with these in mind.
In a nutshell - along with Ceramides and Cholesterols, the skin's outer most layer is made up of Free Fatty Acids (FFAs) including the Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) also known as Omegas 3 and 6.
You may have already heard of some of these from the foods you eat.
The body is unable to create Essential Fatty Acids on its own, and so relies on getting them from your diet and through the topical application of your skincare products. They keep the skin barrier healthy by preventing transepidermal water loss (i.e. water loss through the skin's barrier) which causes skin dehydration. They also help to repair the outer layers of the skin, among other great benefits.
Skin hydration is really important. A damaged skin barrier allows irritants, microbes and allergens to enter, which is then linked to various skin conditions (e.g. dermatitis and eczema), inflammation, and increased oxidation (i.e. ageing). For healthy, flawless, smooth and supple skin you need to make sure your skin barrier is adequately hydrated and protected - and this is where the fatty acids come in!
Each ingredient we use has a different composition of fatty acids. We use this as a guide to formulate products based on skin types. Matching up the chemical composition of ingredients to the skin type we’re formulating for makes skincare products much more effective.
So here's the science behind some of the fatty acids found in carrier oils (and our natural skincare products)...
Linoleic Acid (Omega 6)
40-50% of the skin's epidermis consists of Linoleic Acid. Generally - a higher amount of Linoleic Acid is better for oily or acne prone skin, and is less likely to clog pores (i.e. non-comedogenic). It also helps reduce inflammation from spots, and is lighter and more easily absorbed. Studies have shown that acne sufferers naturally produce more sebum (natural oils) than people with dry or normal skin types. A lighter oil, high in Linoleic Acid with astringent properties can help balance the sebum production.
It isn’t only good for oily skin types though - it also helps the formulation of ceramides, and strengthens the skin’s natural barrier to prevent moisture loss. Studies have shown that people with atopic dermatitis have lower amounts of Linoleic Acid, which is believed to contribute towards a damaged skin barrier.
Oils high in Linoleic Acid: Hemp, Safflower, Sunflower, Peanut, Argan and Grapeseed Oils
Linolenic Acid (Omega 3)
A minor component of skin (less than 2% of the epidermis) with powerful antioxidant properties, helping to minimise UV and pollution damage, conditions skin and reduces dark spots.
Linolenic Acid also has cleansing properties, although it is less well studied than the other fatty acids mentioned here.
Oils high in Linolenic Acid: Hemp, Borage, Canola/Rapeseed, Flaxseed, Chia, Walnut, Soy
Oleic Acid (Omega 9 - technically, not an Essential Fatty Acid as it can be produced by the body in small quantities)
A fantastic emollient, with antioxidant properties, Oleic Acid is great for drier skin types. It has a low viscosity, richer and thicker texture, absorbing more slowly (meaning it is highly moisturising).
In addition, it can help soothe irritated and dry skin when combined with other fatty acids, experts suggest 1-10% Oleic Acid overall can be extremely beneficial for repairing skin barrier and hydrating dry skin.
Pure Oleic Acid gets a bad rap - studies have shown it can disrupt the skin’s barrier when applied undiluted, leading to irritation. However, when used in combination with other ingredients, this “disruption” actually helps other components penetrate deeper into the skin.
We include ingredients with Oleic Acid in our products for dry and sensitive skin.
Oils high in Oleic Acid: Macadamia, Avocado, Sunflower and Olive Oils.
Ricinoleic Acid (Omega 9)
This fatty acid is less well known, and only found in very small amounts in some vegetable oils, with the exception of Castor Oil. Castor Oil contains 85-95% Ricinoleic Acid, which gives it great antibacterial and antimicrobial properties - fantastic for reducing acne and inflammation, as well as cleaning pores and minimising blackheads. However, when used in large quantities (or neat) it can cause some skin types to purge, causing spots or irritation. Proportions of less than 10% are optimum, and when mixed with Linoleic and Oleic Acids, it can work wonders on oily or acne prone skin, especially on wash off products (such as our cleansing oils).
Oil high in Ricinoleic Acid: Castor Oil is the only natural oil with large amounts of Ricinoleic Acid
Eicosenoic Acid (Omega 9)
Found in Jojoba and Meadowfoam Oils in larger quantities, this saturated fatty acid is not produced by the body (and therefore considered an Essential Fatty Acid) but is only found in a few plant oils. It enhances absorption of other ingredients, balances skin's natural sebum levels and acts as a gentle emolient (i.e. softens skin).
Oils high in Eicosenoic Acids: Jojoba, Guarana, Moringa, Camelina, some of the Brassica family
These are just a few of the fatty acids found in natural carrier oils - there are 38 saturated fatty acids, and 19 unsaturated fatty acids, all with different properties which affect the skin differently. We'll dive further into some of the other fatty acids in a future blog post.
Summary:
The fatty acid content of various vegetable oils can impact how products are absorbed, and their benefits for different skin types. Oleic Acid is thicker and richer, and better for drier skin types, Linolenic and Linoleic Acids are good for all skin types but are particularly suited to oilier skin as they are lighter and more easily absorbed. Ricinoleic Acid helps reduce acne and inflammation, but isn’t tolerated by all skin types when applied undiluted. Picking products that are better suited to your skin type based on their fatty acid composition will give you much better results. That’s why each of our products are formulated to create the perfect balance for different skin types.
Fatty Acid Profiles For Some Of Our Favourite Carrier Oils
Oil | Properties | Oleic Acid % | Linoleic Acid % | Linolenic Acid % | Other Fatty Acids % |
Grape Seed | Astringent, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory | 21 | 65-75 | <1 | |
Sweet Almond | Emolient, hydrating | 60-82 | 20-30 | 0.3 | |
Apricot Kernel | Anti-inflammatory, Anti-aging, Antibacterial, Anti-oxidant | 60-70 | 25 | <0.5 | |
Peach Kernel | Emolient, hydrating (similar to Apricot) | 50-75 | 15-35 | - | Palmitic: 4-8, Erucic: 15% |
Argan Oil | Antioxidant regulates sebum, anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing, hydrating | 42 | 37 | <0.5 | Palmitic: 12, Stearic: 6 |
Rosehip Oil | Anti-oxidant, reverses hyperpigmentation & scars, anti-ageing, regulates sebum and boosts collagen | 18 | 55 | 26 | Palmitic: 5.5 |
Hemp Seed | Anti-inflammatory, balances sebum, promotes new skin cell growth, rich in antioxidants | 11 | 56 | 20 | Palmitic: 6.5, Stearic: 2.5 |
Sunflower Seed | Hydrates, reduces inflammation, anti-ageing, helps reduce pore size | 14-40 | 44-75 | 5 | Palmitic: 12, Stearic: 5 |
Jojoba | Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, astringent, non-comedogenic, Similar in molecular structure to our own sebum. | 11 | - | - | Eicosenoic: 70%, Erucic: 15, Palmitic: 1.5 |
*Fatty Acid profiles vary from batch to batch, across different regions (soil and climate differences) and extraction methods, so please use this information as a rough guide and do your own research or consult your dermatologist.
I hope you found this information useful, and that it explains why we use certain ingredients in our products. If you'd like to dive deeper into the research on fatty acids in skincare, here are some great articles we've read and refer back to when formulating.
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